Friday, March 2, 2012

Leviton 390-1W Medium Base, Bi-Pin, Standard Fluorescent Lampholder, Pedestal, Screw Mount, Turn-Type, 2-Screw Terminal, White

!±8± Leviton 390-1W Medium Base, Bi-Pin, Standard Fluorescent Lampholder, Pedestal, Screw Mount, Turn-Type, 2-Screw Terminal, White


Rate : | Price : $2.39 | Post Date : Mar 02, 2012 08:14:04
Usually ships in 24 hours

Leviton 109-390-1WH Fluorescent Lampholder, White Leviton 109-390-1WH Fluorescent Lampholder, White Features: Medium bi-pin, screw terminal Easy to wire Lamp locks in place For use with 14 to 20 watt fluorescent Furnished with mounting screw and nut 600 volts 660 watt White Body 1" wide, 1-7/16" at base x 2-7/16" overall height

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Thursday, January 19, 2012

Solderless Electrical Terminal Assortment - 160 Pc

!±8± Solderless Electrical Terminal Assortment - 160 Pc

Brand : IIT | Rate : | Price : $0.00
Post Date : Jan 19, 2012 15:57:28 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


  • 160 insulated PVC-sleeve, zinc-plated wire terminals and connectors
  • Essential for automotive, small-engine, appliance and electrical repair
  • 18 of the most common wire connection sizes and styles (see description for complete list)
  • An incredible value - 160 high-quality pieces for just pennies each!
  • Get improved wiring results by using project-specific components

More Specification..!!

Solderless Electrical Terminal Assortment - 160 Pc

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Tuesday, January 10, 2012

So, Your Starter Is Just Clicking

!±8± So, Your Starter Is Just Clicking

Does you starter make a *click* sound when you try to start your vehicle?

Each time you turn the ignition switch to start, does the starter just *click* one time?

That is probably the starter solenoid.

If it goes, *click-click-click-click*, and so on, it may just be a low battery.

A low battery that makes the starter *click* a few times doesn't have enough *juice* in it to turn the starter over to turn the flywheel over to turn the crankshaft over to make the engine start...phew!

A simple way to tell if the battery is at fault is to turn the headlights on and turn the ignition switch to start.

If the lights go out, then the battery is probably at fault.

Course, you'll have to run real fast after you hit the start position in order to see if the lights go out...or have someone out there watching for you.:-)

You can purchase a small inexpensive battery charger at most malls, or parts store.

The best way to use a *trickle* chargers is to charge the batter all night, or all day, whichever pleases you.

You can try charging the battery. If it runs down again, then you need to do something.

Remove the battery terminals from the battery post, if you have the *post* type, and clean the post and the inside of the cable clamp.

If you have the side mount just loosen the 8mm bolt and clean the terminal where it comes into contact with the battery. Clean the part on the battery, too. :-)

Sometimes the battery will build up a lot of corrosion on the outside of the cable clamp.

When this happens, usually, the inside part of the clamp and post will create a hard metallic-like surface.

This stops the flow of electricity from the alternator to the battery.

When you use the battery's reserve, it's gone, no more being put in.

If the vehicle does crank, it will run off the alternator, which ain't good. :-(

If cleaning the post and recharging the battery doesn't solve the problem, you may need a new one.

Don't run to the nearest *convenience store* and buy a battery.

Take your battery to a place that sells batteries and have it checked.

If it is gone to where old dead batteries go, then you will have to purchase a new one.

You may have other problems...like the alternator; the tension on the alternator belt... several things could make the battery be low...did you leave the parking lights on when you parked, to go shopping? :-)


So, Your Starter Is Just Clicking

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